Third Estella Hair Design

Products & Equipment:

-     Brush set

-     Hair grips & sectioning grips

-     Large barrel curlers

-     Small barrel curlers

-     Ribbon

-     Heat defence spray

-     Hairspray

Method:

·        First, section off the front portion of hair, in line with the ears

·        Part the back of the hair down the centre

·        Beginning on one side, take a section of hair from the top and curl around large barrel curlers towards the middle of the head

·        Fix each curl with a grip whilst it cools

·        Continue curling and securing sections on either side of the head

·        When all the curls have cooled, fix the curls
in the same directions with hair grips, tightly intertwining them with one another

·        Curl the front portion of the hair with small barrel curlers

·        Fix with hairspray before tying a length of red ribbon in a band around the model’s head

Evaluation:

This design was an adaptation of my first one, I made the style more mature to reflect the stage in the character’s life I was representing. When creating this style, I made the back section much neater and compact to present an efficient period hairstyle.

Second Estella Hair Design

Products & Equipment:

·        Brush set

·        Hair grips & ties

·        Donut shaped hair pad

·        Hair mousse

·        Hair spray

Method:

-     Begin by brushing through the hair and creating a middle parting with a pin tail comb

-     Run a generous amount of hair mousse through the top of the hair and brush the hair directed towards the nape of the neck, keeping the hair as smooth and tight to the scalp as possible however have the hair come down partially over the face, covering the model’s ears

-     Keeping the hair taught, gather towards the base of the head and secure as a pony tail with a hair tie

-     Slide the hair through the donut pad

-     Have the hair in the pony tail fold back on itself to disguise the padding, securing with hair grips placed inwards, beneath the donut

-     With the excess hair, gather and braid in a plait to wind around the break between the donut and the scalp

-     Secure the plait with a hair grip before fixing the whole style with hairspray

Evaluation:

Though my inspiration for this look was taken from a selection of Victorian hairstyles, the overall look isn’t particularly period and could quite easily suit a modern day trend. It’s a straightforward design that’s easy to achieve and doesn’t require many skills that I’ve learnt especially for this project. 

First Estella Hair Design

Products & Equipment:

-     Brush set

-     Hair grips & sectioning grips

-     Large barrel curling tongs

-     Small barrel curling tongs

-     Heat defence spray

Method:

·        First, section off the front portion of hair, in line with the ears

·        Part the back of the hair down the centre

·        Beginning on one side, take a section of hair from the top and curl around large barrel curlers towards the middle of the head

·        Fix each curl with a grip whilst it cools

·        Continue curling and securing sections on either side of the head

·        When all the curls have cooled, fix the curls
in the same directions with hair grips, tightly intertwining them with one another

·        Curl the front portion of the hair horizontally
from a middle parting to the ears

·        End by fixing the entire hairstyle with hairspray
 

Evaluation:

My initial design had involved pin curls around the hairline however through trialling I found this wasn't entirely achievable. The intricate pin curls I wanted to create around the hairline were spoilt by securing grips that were difficult to disguise. When I trialled the design, I opted to leave the curls down instead. 

Creating burns

Products & Equipment:

-        Gelglyk

-        Supra colour palette

-        Tissue

-        Spirit gum

-        Brush set & Disposables

Method:

1.      Burns vary in appearance according to how they came about
- fire burns will have a singed edge
- chemical burns often react in the shape of the reaction

2.      Consider how the burn happened and the shape, colour & texture it will be

3.      Gelglyk (gelatine) can be bought in the colours blood, scar, flesh & dark flesh

4.      Gelglyk doesn’t’ react with the skin, doesn’t require a barrier cream and can be removed with water

5.      It is long lasting and you can apply makeup over the top of it if wanted

6.      You can melt and mix supra colour into it to get a specific colour

7.      You can create various textures also, including mixing glitter into it

8.      To make your own medium, mix2/3 packets of gelatine with one part water

9.      Put gelatine pot in a plastic bowl with water

10.   Put it in the microwave for 20seconds, checking on it every few seconds after that

11.   Once applied to the skin, the edges can be melted down with a cotton bud and warm water

12.   If you’re creating a burn with latex, the edges can be melted down with acetone

13.   Dry gelatine on the skin with a cool hairdryer

14.   Use as a blood base

15.   Creating the burn
- take pieces of tissue, paint over with spirit gum, leaving some edges loose as flakes of skin
- lift areas with a pin to create depth
- colour with supra colours
- create blisters with flesh coloured gelatine  

NOTES:

·        Burns are shiny

·        Gelglyk is available from SCREENFACE or CHARLES FOX

·        Do not melt gelglyk with metal materials in a microwave

·        Remove spirit gum with spirit gum remover

 

Silhouette Contd.

Using further characteristics from my bank of eccentric hair images, I created a hairstyle on my dolls head at home which I then had to replicate in class. The hairstyle was shot as a silhouette so shape was very important to the design of my hairstyle. I was inspired by my final hair plan for Miss Havisham which had a lot of shape created by tonging, frizzing and backcombing the hair.

Here is the image I bought into class of my creation at home…

This original style was far too contemporary and didn’t include enough Victorian detail. Therefore, in class, I opted for a smoothed over top portion and included an accessory to add to the silhouette’s formation. This is the silhouette I created in my lesson...

I am pleased with this silhouette and I really love the detailing in the shape created from the texture. I still feel it lacks the tradition of a Victorian hairstyle. To make it adhere to the era more, I would bring the front portion of the hair forward to resemble the generic style from my Victorian hair research.   

Who is Estella?

Estella. The adopted daughter of Miss Havisham. She’s represented as a loveless, cold character, even from a young age when we meet her in Havisham’s derelict mansion. She talks down to Pip as they play and throughout the story, maintains a bitter approach, never letting down her guard. In television/film adaptations, she’s very beautiful. She never wears a lot of makeup, which is in keeping with the era but regularly dons elaborate, sophisticated hairstyles.

Before I can progress to the design stage of my Estella assessment, I need to decide which stage of her life I’d like to create. In the film, we see her grow from child to widowed woman and her appearance changes throughout, often based on her personality and character traits. For example, when she’s a child and she’s innocent and naïve, she wears full, long sleeved dresses and her hair hangs around her face in soft curls. However, when she’s returned from her travels and has grown up considerably, she’s developed a cold, powerful persona. She looks down on the likes of Pip and has fiercely structured and intricately detailed up dos, as well as clothes of luxury materials and fine jewels. 

Though we don’t actually see it in the film or television adaptations of Great Expectations, we understand that Estella was the victim of an abusive marriage to Bentley Drummle, this is also a stage in her life I could explore. However, when we see her at the end of the story, she has been broken. She’s no longer the superior personality we were once so familiar with but has gained a more considerate, forgiving nature after the experience of her difficult relationship. Her appearance is softer and reflects her new found kindness. 

First Assessment (Havisham)

Creating my silhouette

My chosen silhouette was largely influenced by creating different textures and bringing them together to show a lot of shape. I worked on a doll’s head that’d been previously crimped, already advancing in texture.

Products & Equipment:

-     Brush set

-     Hair grips & sectioning grips

-     Small barrel curling tongs

-     Hair straighteners

-     Heat defence spray

-     Hairspray

Method:

·        Separate the top and side parts of the hair, working first of all, on the back

·        Take a small section of hair

·        Wind it tightly in a figure of 8 around a wavy hairpin

·        Secure this by sliding a hairgrip vertically down the centre of the wavy pin

·        Heat under hair straighteners and then leave to cool

·        Release from the hair grip and then tease the styled hair to create frizz

·        Repeat this on different parts of the hair

·        Include curls too, created by small barrel curlers

·        Tease and backcomb the back section of the hair and secure the texture created with hairspray

·        Brush the sides of the hair back and grip behind the ears

·        Working on the front portion, backcomb the hair and then style it into a barrel curl on top of the head

·        Secure this with hairspray before using a decorative flower, sitting it in the barrel curl

Evaluation:
I am pleased with this silhouette and I really love the detailing in the shape created from the texture. I still feel it lacks the tradition of a Victorian hairstyle. To make it adhere to the era more, I would bring the front portion of the hair forward to resemble the generic style from my Victorian hair research.

Victorian Hairstyle

Using the marvellous research tool that is Pinterest, I collected a series of images related to hair under the key words, ‘romantic’, ‘cruel’ and ‘eccentric’. It was really interesting to learn which styles represented each term and how the differentiated in the means of shape, texture and colour.

 

http://www.pinterest.com/danikayasmin/romantic/

http://www.pinterest.com/danikayasmin/eccentric/

http://www.pinterest.com/danikayasmin/cruel/

In my next practical session, I was instructed to create a Victorian hairstyle using padding and previously taught techniques on a doll’s head. This look also had to include elements from any of the hair images I’d collected.

 

To create this, I experimented with padding the front and side sections and used small barrel curlers to create tight ringlets to frame the face. On the back of the head I experimented with the additional texture of small twists in a linear formation.

Illnesses of the 1800s

Great Expectations is set in an era that was plagued with poor environmental conditions and few medical breakthroughs. Wide spread diseases were a huge issue in the 1800s, often causing illnesses on epidemic proportions.

A lot of the diseases of the 19^th century affected children. Chicken pox and Diphtheria, both contagious child hood diseases, would cause fever-like symptoms and weakness. Poliomyelitis would often leave children with temporary paralysis that only bed rest could cure.

Small pox was a wide spread disease that, though it affected all ages, was particularly fatal to young children. It would cause blister-like bumps on the skin and inside the mouth and throat. If the throat swelled, the infected would have difficulty breathing.

Cholera was also a disease present in the 19^th century, caused by the consumption of contaminated water. If you contracted cholera, you’d eventually die; the skin would shrink and turn blue too.

The highly contagious Consumption or ‘Tuberculosis’ was a common cause of death throughout the century which caused body tissue to waste away.  

A 'CHOLERA' notice displayed in New York City in 1832

 

http://logicmgmt.com/1876/overview/medicine/diseases.htm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cholera_outbreaks_and_pandemics

19th Century Illness'

Products & Equipment:

·        Glycerine

·        Pipettes & bottles

·        Eye drops (individual files)

·        Supra colour palette

·        Duo & Latex

·        Kryolan tear stick 

Method:

1.      Be aware of the illness that the actor is portraying and the visual symptoms of this illness

2.      If you have to create a fever, the skin will be blotchy as the blood vessels are near the surface of the skin

3.      To create a fever:
- mix red and a little blue from your supra colour palette with a little moisturiser
- use your fingers to pat onto fever prone areas such as inner cheek
- be careful it doesn’t resemble rouge but it motley coloured
- redden the edges of the ears
- continue the rash down the body
- make the lips look slightly darker
- apply duo to stretched lips with a slight build up in the corner to resemble a sore patch, rough this up when it has dried

4.      To create tiredness:
- mix yellow, red and green colours from your supra palette to create brown
- use a fine brush to work around the eye area
- darken the sockets using stippling motions and blend away the edges with your finger

5.      To create dry skin:
- layer up latex with a sponge and rough up whilst it dries
- to dry fully, use a hairdryer on a low heat until it’s clear
- powder over the top
- dab a little blood over the lips to create a broken effect
- make a cold sore look inflamed with red supra colour on a cotton bud

6.      To create sweat:
- pour glycerine into a palette and absorb into a stipple sponge
- blot this over the face to create sweat
- use a water spray to dampen the hairline

-     To create tears:
- use a pipette to deposit glycerine tears under the eyes and in the corner
- use eye drops to create tears in the eyes

NOTES:

·        Use your fingers to apply character make up

·        Never put glycerine in the eye

Creating cuts and scars

Products & Equipment:

·        Collodiun by Kryloan

·        Tuplast

·        Fixerspray

·        Dermashield

·        Palette knife

·        Brush set

Method:

1.      Collodiun by Kryolan is a non-flexible product that can be used on the skin to create cuts or scars

2.      Paint onto the skin, roughly a quarter inch area

3.      Create a dent for the cut using the edge of your palette knife

4.      Cool with a hairdryer whilst holding in the folded position

5.      Makeup over the top of the wound using dabbing brush strokes

6.      Tuplast is great for old wounds and scarring

7.      Apply it in lines and makeup over the top

8.      A similar effect can be used with duo, using a tee pin to pick at it

9.      Fixerspray fixes grease based makeup and keeps it from moving

1.      Dermashield is a barrier cream that can be used on sensitive skin when you’re using products with a high alcohol content

2.      Shake the Dermashield before use and have the model apply it if you want it over or around the lips

Miss Havisham Final Design

The way I see Miss Havisham, she wouldn’t be too visibly aged but more preserved as the lack of sunlight exposure would have slowed down the ageing process. Therefore, for my final design is a combination of my first three designs with less ageing. I also wanted to focus on texture and create a makeup that has both greasy and dry qualities. For the hair design, I opted for a lot of texture and volume to the bottom whilst maintaining a formal, wedding-like hair style on top.    

To create this look... 

Products & Equipment:

·        Brush set

·        Cotton buds & disposable mascara wands

·        Kryolan Foundation Palette

·        Kryolan Concealer Palette

·        NYX Light Concealer

·        Supra Colour Palette

·        Helen E Loose Shimmer

·        Vaseline

      Mac Red Pencil 

Method: 

1.      Apply a foundation base all over, including ears & neck

2.      Contour with a foundation colour two tones darker than the base

3.      Highlight with NYX concealer

4.      Using D14 & D16 from concealer palette, create dark circles around the eyes using finger to soften edges

5.      Work the grey colour from the Supra Colour Palette into the eyebrows using a disposable mascara wand

6.      Brush the shimmer across the cheek bones and forehead

7.      Blend D10,D11 & D14 of the concealer palette and apply to the lips

      Dab Vaseline underneath the eye for greasy effect

Hair:

·        Back combing brush

·        Pin tail comb

·        Sectioning clips

·        Hair grips

·        Hair spray

·        Small barrel curling tongs

1.      Section the top portion of the hair off from the hair line to the crown

2.      Create figure of 8 frizzes into the bottom of the hair, secure and then hold under hair straighteners before leaving to cool and then releasing

3.      Curl the rest of the hair around small barrel curlers

4.      Comb out and backcomb the hair, securing with hairspray

5.      Backcomb the top portion of the hair and secure with grips

6.      Curl and style loose parts of the hair around the front of the head