Dirtying Down

Products & Equipment:

-     Cotton buds

-     Kryolan tooth enamel

-     Make up brush set

-     Supra colour palette

Method:

1.      Before you begin, consider the storyboard/theme and reasoning behind the actors deteriorated look, also consider the environment and time scale. If they fell in a field, what kind of mud/dirt should be created? Will you have to work with the wardrobe department to match dirty downed clothes?

2.      To achieve a ‘No Make Up’ look…
- apply a base
- apply a grease/cream blusher
- use waterproof brown mascara
- fill in the eyebrows with eye gel
- no lipstick

3.      Dirty the palms of the hands, underneath the fingernails, under the sleeves and in the rips of any clothes
- think chipped nail varnish
- apply moisturiser to the hand
- use supra colours
- apply a darker colour underneath the nails

4.      For the hair, use brill cream to make the hair greasy, grease down from the roots

5.      Use dry shampoo to dull down the hair

6.      Crying/running mascara appearance…
- run a cotton bud with water along the inner water line

7.      Tooth enamel by Kryolan comes in gold, silver, nicotine and black with other colours also available to buy
- dry the teeth you’re applying it to with a cotton bud

8.      Dip a cotton bud into the enamel and put onto the teeth

NOTES:

Men should wear as little makeup as possible

Smooth and shiny hair

Products & Equipment:

-     Brush kit

-     Hair grips & sectioning grips

-     Hair mousse

-     Hair dryer

Method:

·        Begin by sectioning the hair, working from the bottom/ underneath part first

·        Take a section of hair, roughly the width of a barrel brush

·        In order for the hair to sit flat to the scalp, the hair cuticles have to be smooth. This is achievable by using a hairdryer

·        Using a hairdryer, direct the air from root to tip, holding the hair taught with a brush

·        Continue drying the section until the hair is noticeable smoother

·        Repeat on more sections, working up the head, until you’ve done so on all of the hair

·        If you wish to incorporate a middle parting, do so before sectioning and drying the top part of the hair

·        Apply a generous amount of mousse to the hair and run it over the scalp to give shine and keep the hair neat

·        Brush the hair into the direction of choice before securing discreetly and tightly with either a hair grip or tie 

What is Gothic Horror?

Gothic fiction, sometimes referred to as Gothic horror, is a genre or mode of literature that combines fiction, horror and Romanticism. 

Gothic fiction - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. 2014. Gothic fiction - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. [ONLINE] Available at:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gothic_fiction. [Accessed 01 April 2014].

Gothic Horror on Pinterest. 2014. Gothic Horror on Pinterest. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.pinterest.com/danikayasmin/gothic-horror/. [Accessed 05 May 2014].

Light scarring using moulds

Products & Equipment:

-     Brush set & disposables

-     Tee pin

-     Set scar mould

-     Pros-Aide (adhesive)

-     Pros-Aide remover

-     Supra colour Palette

Method:

1.      Make sure the area of skin you’re attaching the mould to is free from grease or moisture, otherwise the prosthetic won’t stick

2.      Powder over the mould to avoid it sticking together

3.      Lift the scar from the mould using a tee pin

4.      Powder on the reverse side, again, to avoid it sticking

5.      Attach the prosthetic pieces with Pros-Aide

6.      Melt away any edges using a cotton bud in warm water if the mould is gelatine or acetone if the mould is latex

7.      Make up the scar using colours from your supra colour palette

8.      Use Pros-Aide remover to remove the scar

NOTES:

These moulds can be made of latex, silicone or gelatine.

To create your own gelatine mould, simply pour the melted mixture into the mould and smooth over, then put into the fridge to cool quickly

Goodbye Great Expectations

Great Expectations has been an interesting focal point for designing this term. It has taught me just how much research and consideration you can have over just one character. Their foundations, the history and the circumstances all come in to factor when you create a look for a character. It was especially fun to have to create period looks and learn techniques to achieve possible realistic skin problems and ageing. 

Evaluation of Estella

Choosing a period in Estella’s life with which to work with was a tough decision as I feel she changes so much as a character and in her appearance. However, I was particularly drawn to her characteristics post-marriage and explored her new personality traits through hair and makeup. I wanted to create a look that represented sophistication and class but also softness and kindness. Though I feel she’d changed, I wanted to maintain that superior motive she’s always had through an up styled hairdo and subtle, rosy toned makeup. Because Estella was shot in black and white, I got to play with stronger colours to give a variety of tone in the final image.  I am pleased with the outcome of my Estella look. The hair was a particular turning point for me as I felt I’d achieved a style I wouldn’t have been able to do so without the guidance and assistance from teachers.  

Final Estella designs

Here are my final hair and make up designs for Estella. To achieve this look...

Products & Equipment:

-     Makeup brushes

-     Cotton buds & disposable mascara wands

-     NYX concealer (light)

-     Kryolan foundation palette #G177

-     Illamasqua loose powder

-     Maybelline bronzer

-     Illamasqua powder blusher

-     Maybelline mascara

-     Kryolan eye shadow palette #almond & #cigar

-     Helen E lip pencil

-     Mac lipstick #brave A22

Method:

1.      Cleanse, tone and moisturise the face

2.      Apply a foundation base and blend concealer underneath the eyes

3.      Set the base with loose powder

4.      Contour with bronzer before applying blusher to the cheeks

5.      Apply the almond coloured eye shadow on the eyelids, blending into cigar colour in the crease

6.      Line the lips with lip pencil before filling in with lipstick 

Estella Assessment

Evaluation of Miss Havisham

It was fun designing a look that wasn’t glamorous but actually quite ugly and haggard. Creating a period look was tasking as I felt it limited my opportunities to be creative and explorative with my designs. I chose to create an older woman, with a messy hairstyle that still resembled a wedding hairdo. I blended tones from a concealer palette to create dark circles around her eyes, wanting her to look exhausted and gaunt. I considered ageing her with techniques taught in class but during my research into sun deprivation (an important factor in Miss Havisham’s life) I learnt that the ageing process will be considerable slowed down due to lack of sunlight. 

Because this look had to be recreated two weeks later, I was careful to be as detailed as possible in my plans and take plenty of pictures to refer to. This all came in very handy when it came to the recreation process. The second time around, I was a lot quicker creating the look. I felt more confident too as I knew what I was doing.  I’m pleased with the outcome of my Miss Havisham looks, I think my continuity was a very close match to my first practical application. 

Estella Hair Practise 2.0

Here's a second trial for my Estella, the back part of the hair is much neater.
For the front portion, I used a technique taught in class that creates a wave
into a curl. I think this hairstyle is more mature and in keeping with the Estella look
I want to create.

Estella Hair Practise

Here's my first attempt at creating my Estella hair design,
I feel the curls at the back need to sit neater and show more uniformity.
The curls at the front of the hair look too youthful for the appearance I want
to give.

Estella Hair

I envision the character of Estella to be
largely misunderstood and perceptively
cold hearted and fierce.
I imagine, if it weren’t for her upbringing,
she’d have quite a gentle soul and be naturally
kind hearted and considerate.
To comply with the combination of
characteristics, I have designed a hairstyle to
represent all the elements.
The curls represent the tranquil aspects of
her personality whereas the uniformity of the
curls and up-styled structure represent her
cruel nature.

Design Method

-   Section off the front portion of the hair,
in front of the ears and loose hair around
the nape of the neck/hairline

-  Part the back of the hair, down the
centre, and curl sections around
large barrel curlers in the direction
indicated by the design

-   Fix with sectioning clips whilst they cool
in their formation

-   When the curls have cooled, fix the curls
in the same directions with hair grips, bound
tightly together in the middle of the head

-   Curl the front portion of the hair horizontally
from a middle parting to the ears

-   Allow them to cool in formation before fixing them
into pin curls around the of the face
Fix the entire hairstyle with hairspray
 

Designs for Estella

 Because Estella would be photographed in black and white, I considered tone rather than colours. I wanted the make-up to be a natural look that is in keeping with the period that Great Expectations is set. In the two initial designs below, I looked at a strong contour and different coloured lips. The latter isn't quite natural but again, being shot under black and white, it won't show.

Second Assessment (Havisham)

Bold Hair using finger waves, ringlets & pin curls

Products & Equipment:

-     Brush set

-     Hair grips & sectioning grips

-     Water spray

-     Curling tongs

·        To create pin curls
- Taking small sections of hair each time, curl the hair in a spherical motion from tip to root so it sits flat against the scalp. Fasten securely and discreetly with a hair grip. In order to maintain the shape, you may choose to dampen the hair beforehand or fix with hairspray afterwards.

-     To create finger wave
-Section the front portion of the hair and dampen with a water spray (this will help the style to hold), then brush the hair away from the face for the initial direction of the wave. Starting at the roots of this first section, place your middle finger horizontally, pressing down to form a groove. Whilst holding your finger here, comb the hair below it towards the face to create the movement. Bring your forefinger parallel to your middle finger and pinch the hair up slightly, secure this section formed using a sectioning grip. Repeat this action below the grip, brushing the hair towards the back of the head again to continue the wave pattern. Once the entire section is secured in the wave pattern, it can be left to dry naturally or under heat, the grips can then be released to reveal the style which you can fix with hairspray or go on to style accordingly.

-     To create ringlets
- Take a section of hair and starting a little shy of the root, manually wrap the hair around the curling iron, closing the lever down on the end. When heated through, release the hair to create a ringlet. Continue this on the rest of the hair. If you wish, you can brush the ringlets into each other to create a wave effect. 

Continuity

Continuity is important in every aspect of film and television programme making from the positioning of the actors and props to lighting, stage direction and hair and makeup. Often, the scenes of a film or television programme are shot out of sequence and some scenes may be revisited weeks after the initial filming. In order to comply with continuity, a hair and makeup artist needs to be able to recreate a look from pictures and design plans. It has to be exactly the same as before to add the believability of the scene.

In my Miss Havisham assessment, I am tested on my continuity. The period look I have created for Miss Havisham will be recreated in two weeks. The pictures will then be compared to assess how similar it looks to the first time I carried it out.

To help myself recreate the look as similarly as possible, I have written up detailed application methods and taken plenty of pictures that I shall use as reference as I recreate the look.