19th Century Illness'

Products & Equipment:

·        Glycerine

·        Pipettes & bottles

·        Eye drops (individual files)

·        Supra colour palette

·        Duo & Latex

·        Kryolan tear stick 

Method:

1.      Be aware of the illness that the actor is portraying and the visual symptoms of this illness

2.      If you have to create a fever, the skin will be blotchy as the blood vessels are near the surface of the skin

3.      To create a fever:
- mix red and a little blue from your supra colour palette with a little moisturiser
- use your fingers to pat onto fever prone areas such as inner cheek
- be careful it doesn’t resemble rouge but it motley coloured
- redden the edges of the ears
- continue the rash down the body
- make the lips look slightly darker
- apply duo to stretched lips with a slight build up in the corner to resemble a sore patch, rough this up when it has dried

4.      To create tiredness:
- mix yellow, red and green colours from your supra palette to create brown
- use a fine brush to work around the eye area
- darken the sockets using stippling motions and blend away the edges with your finger

5.      To create dry skin:
- layer up latex with a sponge and rough up whilst it dries
- to dry fully, use a hairdryer on a low heat until it’s clear
- powder over the top
- dab a little blood over the lips to create a broken effect
- make a cold sore look inflamed with red supra colour on a cotton bud

6.      To create sweat:
- pour glycerine into a palette and absorb into a stipple sponge
- blot this over the face to create sweat
- use a water spray to dampen the hairline

-     To create tears:
- use a pipette to deposit glycerine tears under the eyes and in the corner
- use eye drops to create tears in the eyes

NOTES:

·        Use your fingers to apply character make up

·        Never put glycerine in the eye

Ageing Research

In Great Expectations, Miss Havisham is considered to be a woman of her mid-fifties. In order to create a realistic Miss Havisham look, I want to incorporate ageing techniques to make my model appear older. I researched ageing of the skin and hair to give me a wider understanding of the appearance I am going to have to create. 

One of the most obvious signs of ageing on the face is wrinkles, creases and sagging of the skin. This is caused by the loss of elasticity in the skin. The ageing changes in our skin are determined by a variety of factors including our genes, nutrition and environmental factors such as weather and sun exposure. 

In fact, the greatest single factor of ageing is sun exposure. An important part of Miss Havisham’s lifestyle is the fact that she hasn’t seen sunlight in many years which makes me believe she wouldn’t be severely aged. 

Sun exposure can cause:
- loss of elasticity
- noncancerous skin growths
- pigment changes
-thickening of the skin 

The decrease of pigmented cells in the skin gives a thin, pale complexion. Also, sebaceous glands produce less oil making the skin dry. The eye area will look sunken and bags will develop around the bottom eyelids.

Also, as we age, we are made less responsive by the shrinking of muscles and bones are made more fragile by the loss of minerals. This can lead to Osteoporosis. 

As far as hair aging is concerned, it’s likely that greying will begin in a woman’s 30s, from the temples and then towards the top of the scalp. Eventually the hair colour becomes lighter before eventually turning white. As we age, our rate of hair growth slows down, often causing hair loss. Eyebrows and eyelashes will also turn grey.

http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/article/004014.htm

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/graphic/2006/12/04/GR2006120400761.html

Image : http://deniseardenkjm.wordpress.com/2013/06/16/stressed-is-just-sugar-spelled-backwards/

Helena Bonham Carter

Helena Bonham Carter dominates the role of Miss Havisham in the 2012 film adaptation. In this interview on YouTube, Helena discusses her portrayal of the iconic role and shares the various concepts and ideas she had for the character prior to filming. It’s enlightening to hear how much input she had exactly and it’s great to see how involved she was in the initial research and design stage.   

Gillian Anderson

This image is from the BBC 1 three-part series adaptation of Great Expectations that aired in 2011. Miss Havisham is portrayed by American actress, Gillian Anderson. The many interpretations of Miss Havisham, in film and television, have varied in accordance to the actress. I find Anderson’s performance to the most diverse considering Miss Havisham is such an iconic role.   

When I read the book, my initial impression of Miss Havisham was a woman virtually immobile, who is cold and harsh and confident in speech. Anderson, however, presents different characteristics. Anderson’s version seemed to flit about quite actively and looked healthy and clean considering she has spent so long away from daylight.

In fact, I feel the film, as a whole, is wrong to include so much daylight in Satis House. A very crucial detail in the story of Great Expectations is Miss Havisham’s sun deprivation. Make up wise, Anderson has been realistically withered to present a character not only deprived of sunlight but deprived of love and emotion. However, from the offset, we first see Miss Havisham emerging from a staircase with sunlight cast over her from a break in the curtains. Sure this gives us an eerie silhouette but it entirely negates her physical appearance. 

I think there are particularly poor aging techniques used on Anderson in this series. Her curls look far too intact considering they would have been styled many years ago. They hang so tight and neat, they look almost childish. Also, her wedding gown looks more like a night dress, no veil or train, and is considerably white considering it has been worn for such a lengthy period.

Anderson hasn’t any bridal flowers in her hair or jewels around her neck. She walks around barefoot as opposed to the traditional detail of Miss Havisham having only one shoe on. She also speaks with a soft, high-pitched voice, which doesn’t come across as authoritative as the book describes Miss Havisham to be.

Finally, the contemporary trait of self-harm suggests a very insecure character which negates the bold, eccentric details of Miss Havisham in the book.

http://kooltvblog.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/pips-progress-dark-road-of-great.html#!/2011/12/pips-progress-dark-road-of-great.html

Miss Havisham

Miss Havisham is one of the main characters in Great Expectations. She is a wealthy and eccentric older woman, who lives with her adopted daughter, Estella, in the ruins of her mansion, Satis House.

As a young woman, Miss Havisham was jilted by the love of her life, Compeyson. He was only interested in marrying her for her money and abandons her, via letter, on their wedding day. Overcome with the abandonment of her fiancé, Miss Havisham never leaves her mansion and lets very few people see her. She remains in her wedding dress, with just one shoe on and her wedding feast uneaten and let to decay.

After time alone, Miss Havisham adopts a little girl to love and be loved by. This child is called Estella. When Miss Havisham adopts Estella, she develops the intensions to protect her from experiencing the same heartache as she had to endure. However, as Estella grew incredibly beautiful, Miss Havisham realised she could seek her revenge on men by having Estella break the hearts of boys.

When Miss Havisham meets Pip, she intends to break his heart by having him fall in love with Estella of whom she’s raised to be cold and heartless. In keeping with her spiteful plans, she does not deny that she is Pip’s benefactor. Pip is therefore under the impression that Miss Havisham is funding his newfound life to make him an ideal match for Estella.

When Estella grows up to marry Bentley Drummle, Pip is left heartbroken and Miss Havisham realises she isn’t merely as satisfied as she’s imagined she would be. She feels bad for hurting Pip and begs him for his forgiveness.

Miss Havisham soon reaches her untimely passing when a lit candle falls onto her dress and sets her dusty, yellowed wedding gown alight and burning her to death.  

Miss Havisham with Estella and Pip. Art by H. M. Brock.

Great Expectations

The topic of this second term is Great Expectations, a novel written by Charles Dickens published in 1861. The story, set early to mid-1800s, of a young ‘common’ boy becoming a gentleman is a story I’ve been familiar with for several years.

I was first introduced to Great Expectations at GCSE level when a piece of coursework involved analysing the first chapter of the book, Magwich and Pip’s encounter. At this stage, I was given an in depth overview of the book and watched the 1974 film adaptation.

When it was revealed the Great Expectations would be the focus of this work brief, I refreshed my memory by re-reading the descriptive passages on the lead characters as well as watching the 2011 BBC 1 three-part series and the 2012 film adaptation starring Helena Bonham Carter. As an additional refresher, I read spark notes, suggested by my course leader, which I found to be a very useful reminder of the story.

Great Expectations is a classic and I love the diversity of the characters and the plot twists. I also find it so insightful to read 150 years later and learn about the class system in the nineteenth century.

The characters I am focusing on for this brief are Miss Havisham and Estella. These are undoubtedly my top two favourite characters.  I like to think of them as the bitter duo of the story, their relationship within the story is quite riveting.

Following this post I plan on writing blog posts on these characters individually, detailing their traits, backgrounds and appearances. From this I intend to research extensively and use my findings to create period design plans, looks for both Miss Havisham and Estella.

This will lead me into the eventual creation of the look on a model which must then be recreated two weeks later to test my ability to adhere to continuity.

Welcome

Hello all, welcome to my Make-up in Motion blog! I’ve worked my way into the second term of my Level 4 degree study and the theme of work this term is Gothic Horror. I’m going to be using this blog to document my journey throughout the term. This will be from basic research through to creating designs and my final assessments.

To kick off my research I’d like to introduce you to my Pinterest page. It’s a fantastic photo-sharing site that allows you to collect images based on any theme.  My Pinterest is: http://www.pinterest.com/danikayasmin/

I’ve only been using this site for a few days and I love it SO much! It’s such a great way to create a digital mood board, it’s easy to search for what you want to find and there are tons of fantastic images to choose from. I’m so glad I have this medium to use not only throughout this brief of work but future briefs too.