Dirtying Down

Products & Equipment:

-     Cotton buds

-     Kryolan tooth enamel

-     Make up brush set

-     Supra colour palette

Method:

1.      Before you begin, consider the storyboard/theme and reasoning behind the actors deteriorated look, also consider the environment and time scale. If they fell in a field, what kind of mud/dirt should be created? Will you have to work with the wardrobe department to match dirty downed clothes?

2.      To achieve a ‘No Make Up’ look…
- apply a base
- apply a grease/cream blusher
- use waterproof brown mascara
- fill in the eyebrows with eye gel
- no lipstick

3.      Dirty the palms of the hands, underneath the fingernails, under the sleeves and in the rips of any clothes
- think chipped nail varnish
- apply moisturiser to the hand
- use supra colours
- apply a darker colour underneath the nails

4.      For the hair, use brill cream to make the hair greasy, grease down from the roots

5.      Use dry shampoo to dull down the hair

6.      Crying/running mascara appearance…
- run a cotton bud with water along the inner water line

7.      Tooth enamel by Kryolan comes in gold, silver, nicotine and black with other colours also available to buy
- dry the teeth you’re applying it to with a cotton bud

8.      Dip a cotton bud into the enamel and put onto the teeth

NOTES:

Men should wear as little makeup as possible

Light scarring using moulds

Products & Equipment:

-     Brush set & disposables

-     Tee pin

-     Set scar mould

-     Pros-Aide (adhesive)

-     Pros-Aide remover

-     Supra colour Palette

Method:

1.      Make sure the area of skin you’re attaching the mould to is free from grease or moisture, otherwise the prosthetic won’t stick

2.      Powder over the mould to avoid it sticking together

3.      Lift the scar from the mould using a tee pin

4.      Powder on the reverse side, again, to avoid it sticking

5.      Attach the prosthetic pieces with Pros-Aide

6.      Melt away any edges using a cotton bud in warm water if the mould is gelatine or acetone if the mould is latex

7.      Make up the scar using colours from your supra colour palette

8.      Use Pros-Aide remover to remove the scar

NOTES:

These moulds can be made of latex, silicone or gelatine.

To create your own gelatine mould, simply pour the melted mixture into the mould and smooth over, then put into the fridge to cool quickly

Creating burns

Products & Equipment:

-        Gelglyk

-        Supra colour palette

-        Tissue

-        Spirit gum

-        Brush set & Disposables

Method:

1.      Burns vary in appearance according to how they came about
- fire burns will have a singed edge
- chemical burns often react in the shape of the reaction

2.      Consider how the burn happened and the shape, colour & texture it will be

3.      Gelglyk (gelatine) can be bought in the colours blood, scar, flesh & dark flesh

4.      Gelglyk doesn’t’ react with the skin, doesn’t require a barrier cream and can be removed with water

5.      It is long lasting and you can apply makeup over the top of it if wanted

6.      You can melt and mix supra colour into it to get a specific colour

7.      You can create various textures also, including mixing glitter into it

8.      To make your own medium, mix2/3 packets of gelatine with one part water

9.      Put gelatine pot in a plastic bowl with water

10.   Put it in the microwave for 20seconds, checking on it every few seconds after that

11.   Once applied to the skin, the edges can be melted down with a cotton bud and warm water

12.   If you’re creating a burn with latex, the edges can be melted down with acetone

13.   Dry gelatine on the skin with a cool hairdryer

14.   Use as a blood base

15.   Creating the burn
- take pieces of tissue, paint over with spirit gum, leaving some edges loose as flakes of skin
- lift areas with a pin to create depth
- colour with supra colours
- create blisters with flesh coloured gelatine  

NOTES:

·        Burns are shiny

·        Gelglyk is available from SCREENFACE or CHARLES FOX

·        Do not melt gelglyk with metal materials in a microwave

·        Remove spirit gum with spirit gum remover

 

19th Century Illness'

Products & Equipment:

·        Glycerine

·        Pipettes & bottles

·        Eye drops (individual files)

·        Supra colour palette

·        Duo & Latex

·        Kryolan tear stick 

Method:

1.      Be aware of the illness that the actor is portraying and the visual symptoms of this illness

2.      If you have to create a fever, the skin will be blotchy as the blood vessels are near the surface of the skin

3.      To create a fever:
- mix red and a little blue from your supra colour palette with a little moisturiser
- use your fingers to pat onto fever prone areas such as inner cheek
- be careful it doesn’t resemble rouge but it motley coloured
- redden the edges of the ears
- continue the rash down the body
- make the lips look slightly darker
- apply duo to stretched lips with a slight build up in the corner to resemble a sore patch, rough this up when it has dried

4.      To create tiredness:
- mix yellow, red and green colours from your supra palette to create brown
- use a fine brush to work around the eye area
- darken the sockets using stippling motions and blend away the edges with your finger

5.      To create dry skin:
- layer up latex with a sponge and rough up whilst it dries
- to dry fully, use a hairdryer on a low heat until it’s clear
- powder over the top
- dab a little blood over the lips to create a broken effect
- make a cold sore look inflamed with red supra colour on a cotton bud

6.      To create sweat:
- pour glycerine into a palette and absorb into a stipple sponge
- blot this over the face to create sweat
- use a water spray to dampen the hairline

-     To create tears:
- use a pipette to deposit glycerine tears under the eyes and in the corner
- use eye drops to create tears in the eyes

NOTES:

·        Use your fingers to apply character make up

·        Never put glycerine in the eye

Creating cuts and scars

Products & Equipment:

·        Collodiun by Kryloan

·        Tuplast

·        Fixerspray

·        Dermashield

·        Palette knife

·        Brush set

Method:

1.      Collodiun by Kryolan is a non-flexible product that can be used on the skin to create cuts or scars

2.      Paint onto the skin, roughly a quarter inch area

3.      Create a dent for the cut using the edge of your palette knife

4.      Cool with a hairdryer whilst holding in the folded position

5.      Makeup over the top of the wound using dabbing brush strokes

6.      Tuplast is great for old wounds and scarring

7.      Apply it in lines and makeup over the top

8.      A similar effect can be used with duo, using a tee pin to pick at it

9.      Fixerspray fixes grease based makeup and keeps it from moving

1.      Dermashield is a barrier cream that can be used on sensitive skin when you’re using products with a high alcohol content

2.      Shake the Dermashield before use and have the model apply it if you want it over or around the lips

Cuts, bruises and black eyes

Products & Equipment:

·        Plasto wax

·        Palette knife & tee pin

·        Supra Colour Palette

·        Red eye pencil

·        Kryolan fake blood

·        Wound filler

·        Bruise wheels

·        Sealer

·        Brush set & disposables

Method:

1.      Consider the age of the wound/bruise

2.      A recently wounded black eye will be red and as it ages it’ll get darker before turning yellow

3.      Use grease products from either the bruise wheel or supra colour palette as they’re easiest to blend

4.      Begin with the lightest colour and apply using fingers with a patting motion onto the area where the bruising has occurred

5.      For a black eye, run a red pencil into the lower water line and blend away with a cotton bud

6.      Use Vaseline to create a swollen effect

7.      Creating a wound…

8.      Use plasto wax to mould to the shape and size of the wound you want to achieve

9.      Smooth the wax onto the skin using a palette knife and blend away any edges using moisturiser

10.   To create the cut, use the edge of the palette knife

11.   Seal the wound with sealer using a cotton bud

12.   Colour the wound to create a realistic appearance

13.   Use a tee pin to fill the wound with wound filler

14.   Using a stipple sponge and red supra colour or blood, you can create scratches around the wound

NOTES:

·        Don’t add any liquid blood to a wound until you’re on location

·        Add coffee grounds to wounds to create dirt and give depth

Theatrical Ageing/ Creping the skin

Products & Equipment:

·        Concealers & foundations

·        Supra Colour Palette

·        Grey coloured hairspray

·        Old Age Stipple – Ben Nye

·        Disposable mascara wands

·        Brush set

Method:

1.      Decide how old you would like to age the model to, consider that everybody ages differently

2.      Beginning with a clean face, apply a base to the model and take out any spots or imperfections and DO NOT powder the base

3.      Have the model screw up different parts of her face so you can see the natural ageing lines

4.      Using colours from the supra colour palette and a fine brush, follow these lines, removing the harsh slightly with your finger as you go

5.      Apply a lighter skin tone above these lines as a highlighter and blend out to create dimension

6.      To age the hair, use grey coloured hairspray, working it out from the root like a natural ageing process

7.      To grey the eyebrows, use supra colour and a disposable mascara wand, working the product into the eyebrow from both directions

8.      Ben Nye – Old Age Stipple is a product you can apply to create a creped skin/aged effect. Apply it to areas where natural wrinkles occur i.e. crow’s feet around the eyes and lip lines. Stretch the area of skin when applying and do not release until the product has dried. 

NOTES:

·        Avoid using white colours as it can show up in blue tones under studio lights

·        Old Age Stipple is a latex product so model’s should have a patch test before use to check for allergies

·        Remember to match the age of the hair to the age of the makeup

·        Work down onto the neck and the back of the hand to create an overall look