19th Century Illness'

Products & Equipment:

·        Glycerine

·        Pipettes & bottles

·        Eye drops (individual files)

·        Supra colour palette

·        Duo & Latex

·        Kryolan tear stick 

Method:

1.      Be aware of the illness that the actor is portraying and the visual symptoms of this illness

2.      If you have to create a fever, the skin will be blotchy as the blood vessels are near the surface of the skin

3.      To create a fever:
- mix red and a little blue from your supra colour palette with a little moisturiser
- use your fingers to pat onto fever prone areas such as inner cheek
- be careful it doesn’t resemble rouge but it motley coloured
- redden the edges of the ears
- continue the rash down the body
- make the lips look slightly darker
- apply duo to stretched lips with a slight build up in the corner to resemble a sore patch, rough this up when it has dried

4.      To create tiredness:
- mix yellow, red and green colours from your supra palette to create brown
- use a fine brush to work around the eye area
- darken the sockets using stippling motions and blend away the edges with your finger

5.      To create dry skin:
- layer up latex with a sponge and rough up whilst it dries
- to dry fully, use a hairdryer on a low heat until it’s clear
- powder over the top
- dab a little blood over the lips to create a broken effect
- make a cold sore look inflamed with red supra colour on a cotton bud

6.      To create sweat:
- pour glycerine into a palette and absorb into a stipple sponge
- blot this over the face to create sweat
- use a water spray to dampen the hairline

-     To create tears:
- use a pipette to deposit glycerine tears under the eyes and in the corner
- use eye drops to create tears in the eyes

NOTES:

·        Use your fingers to apply character make up

·        Never put glycerine in the eye

Creating cuts and scars

Products & Equipment:

·        Collodiun by Kryloan

·        Tuplast

·        Fixerspray

·        Dermashield

·        Palette knife

·        Brush set

Method:

1.      Collodiun by Kryolan is a non-flexible product that can be used on the skin to create cuts or scars

2.      Paint onto the skin, roughly a quarter inch area

3.      Create a dent for the cut using the edge of your palette knife

4.      Cool with a hairdryer whilst holding in the folded position

5.      Makeup over the top of the wound using dabbing brush strokes

6.      Tuplast is great for old wounds and scarring

7.      Apply it in lines and makeup over the top

8.      A similar effect can be used with duo, using a tee pin to pick at it

9.      Fixerspray fixes grease based makeup and keeps it from moving

1.      Dermashield is a barrier cream that can be used on sensitive skin when you’re using products with a high alcohol content

2.      Shake the Dermashield before use and have the model apply it if you want it over or around the lips

Miss Havisham Final Design

The way I see Miss Havisham, she wouldn’t be too visibly aged but more preserved as the lack of sunlight exposure would have slowed down the ageing process. Therefore, for my final design is a combination of my first three designs with less ageing. I also wanted to focus on texture and create a makeup that has both greasy and dry qualities. For the hair design, I opted for a lot of texture and volume to the bottom whilst maintaining a formal, wedding-like hair style on top.    

To create this look... 

Products & Equipment:

·        Brush set

·        Cotton buds & disposable mascara wands

·        Kryolan Foundation Palette

·        Kryolan Concealer Palette

·        NYX Light Concealer

·        Supra Colour Palette

·        Helen E Loose Shimmer

·        Vaseline

      Mac Red Pencil 

Method: 

1.      Apply a foundation base all over, including ears & neck

2.      Contour with a foundation colour two tones darker than the base

3.      Highlight with NYX concealer

4.      Using D14 & D16 from concealer palette, create dark circles around the eyes using finger to soften edges

5.      Work the grey colour from the Supra Colour Palette into the eyebrows using a disposable mascara wand

6.      Brush the shimmer across the cheek bones and forehead

7.      Blend D10,D11 & D14 of the concealer palette and apply to the lips

      Dab Vaseline underneath the eye for greasy effect

Hair:

·        Back combing brush

·        Pin tail comb

·        Sectioning clips

·        Hair grips

·        Hair spray

·        Small barrel curling tongs

1.      Section the top portion of the hair off from the hair line to the crown

2.      Create figure of 8 frizzes into the bottom of the hair, secure and then hold under hair straighteners before leaving to cool and then releasing

3.      Curl the rest of the hair around small barrel curlers

4.      Comb out and backcomb the hair, securing with hairspray

5.      Backcomb the top portion of the hair and secure with grips

6.      Curl and style loose parts of the hair around the front of the head

Miss Havisham makeup designs

I am choosing to create Miss Havisham post-break up, after many years of decay and sunlight deprivation. For my first Miss Havisham makeup design, I played around with the idea of a grey palette with subtle ageing.

 The second Miss Havisham design had focused detail around the eyes in a bid to emphasis her haggard, exhausted state.

My third design places a lot more emphasis on the ageing.  

Ageing Research

In Great Expectations, Miss Havisham is considered to be a woman of her mid-fifties. In order to create a realistic Miss Havisham look, I want to incorporate ageing techniques to make my model appear older. I researched ageing of the skin and hair to give me a wider understanding of the appearance I am going to have to create. 

One of the most obvious signs of ageing on the face is wrinkles, creases and sagging of the skin. This is caused by the loss of elasticity in the skin. The ageing changes in our skin are determined by a variety of factors including our genes, nutrition and environmental factors such as weather and sun exposure. 

In fact, the greatest single factor of ageing is sun exposure. An important part of Miss Havisham’s lifestyle is the fact that she hasn’t seen sunlight in many years which makes me believe she wouldn’t be severely aged. 

Sun exposure can cause:
- loss of elasticity
- noncancerous skin growths
- pigment changes
-thickening of the skin 

The decrease of pigmented cells in the skin gives a thin, pale complexion. Also, sebaceous glands produce less oil making the skin dry. The eye area will look sunken and bags will develop around the bottom eyelids.

Also, as we age, we are made less responsive by the shrinking of muscles and bones are made more fragile by the loss of minerals. This can lead to Osteoporosis. 

As far as hair aging is concerned, it’s likely that greying will begin in a woman’s 30s, from the temples and then towards the top of the scalp. Eventually the hair colour becomes lighter before eventually turning white. As we age, our rate of hair growth slows down, often causing hair loss. Eyebrows and eyelashes will also turn grey.

http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/article/004014.htm

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/graphic/2006/12/04/GR2006120400761.html

Image : http://deniseardenkjm.wordpress.com/2013/06/16/stressed-is-just-sugar-spelled-backwards/

Cuts, bruises and black eyes

Products & Equipment:

·        Plasto wax

·        Palette knife & tee pin

·        Supra Colour Palette

·        Red eye pencil

·        Kryolan fake blood

·        Wound filler

·        Bruise wheels

·        Sealer

·        Brush set & disposables

Method:

1.      Consider the age of the wound/bruise

2.      A recently wounded black eye will be red and as it ages it’ll get darker before turning yellow

3.      Use grease products from either the bruise wheel or supra colour palette as they’re easiest to blend

4.      Begin with the lightest colour and apply using fingers with a patting motion onto the area where the bruising has occurred

5.      For a black eye, run a red pencil into the lower water line and blend away with a cotton bud

6.      Use Vaseline to create a swollen effect

7.      Creating a wound…

8.      Use plasto wax to mould to the shape and size of the wound you want to achieve

9.      Smooth the wax onto the skin using a palette knife and blend away any edges using moisturiser

10.   To create the cut, use the edge of the palette knife

11.   Seal the wound with sealer using a cotton bud

12.   Colour the wound to create a realistic appearance

13.   Use a tee pin to fill the wound with wound filler

14.   Using a stipple sponge and red supra colour or blood, you can create scratches around the wound

NOTES:

·        Don’t add any liquid blood to a wound until you’re on location

·        Add coffee grounds to wounds to create dirt and give depth

Creating sapes with Victorian infuence

Divided into 3 groups in our practical session, I had to create a shapes using padding whilst incorporating a Victorian influence. Ultimately, I tried to create a variety of shape and, tying into previous and future lessons, give an interesting silhouette.

How I created this particular look…

Products & Equipment:

-     Brush set

-     Hair grips & sectioning grips

-     Padding

-     Small barrel curling tongs

-     Heat defence spray

-     Hairspray

Method:

·        Have to hand, 3 wadded pieces for padding for this hairstyle, 2 equal sized ones for the side rolls and a slightly shorter one for the top

·        Begin by sectioning the hair, leaving a band of hair around the whole hairline free for curling as well as a section of hair at the crown of the head for twists

·        The hair should be divided into the top and either sides

·        Beginning with the top section, backcomb the hair, creating volume at the roots, before wrapping tightly around the padding to and securing with grips

·        Similarly with the sides, after backcombing the hair, roll the sections around the pads, directing the roll towards the centre back of the head

·        Use a smoothing brush to settle any flyaway pieces of hair

·        Spritz the band of hair around the hairline with heat defence spray before using small barrel curling tongs, to curl the hair, carefully pumping and sliding the hair from the barrel to create small ringlets

·        Spare the section of hair at the nape of the neck and secure this in a barrel curl directed upwards

·        With the loose hair from the centre of the head,  section into smaller parts and create intricate twists in the hair, backcombing them at the end in order for the style to stay without the use of hair ties or grips

·        Finally, secure the style with hairspray