Creating a French Pleat

In our practical session, we were taught how to create a French pleat.

Products & Equipment:

-     Brush set

-     Hair grips & sectioning grips

-     Curling tongs

-     Batiste (dry shampoo)

-     Heat defence spray

-     Hairspray

Method:

·        Begin by preparing the hair with the use of Batiste. This will absorb any grease on the hair as well as helping towards the volume that will be created

·        Section the hair into front and back sections, keeping separate with sectioning clips

·        Create a middle parting using the end of a pintail comb

·        From the separated back part of hair, take a section of hair from the top

·        Protect the section of hair with a spritz of heat defence spray before curling the hair around heated tongs, directed towards the nape of the neck

·        To release the curl, pump the leaver of the tongs slightly and then slide the hair off of the barrel

·        This will create a barrel curl that you shall then secure with a hair grip

·        Continue down the back portion of hair, curling and securing sections in a brickwork formation until you’ve entirely curled and pinned the top section

·        Then, work in the same format, from either side of the head, directing the curl towards the centre of the head

·        Once both sides are complete, move onto the front section of hair

·        Curl this section, similar to before, directing the curl towards the crown of the head

·        Remove the sectioning clips that are securing the side barrel curls and brush them out

·        Backcomb this part of the hair using a pintail comb, creating volume at the tip and working it down into the roots of the hair, ideally holding at a 90 degree angle for maximum effect

·        Repeat the previous step with the opposite side of the hair

·        Use a smoothing out brush to lightly run over the top of the backcombed area

·        Sweep the hair over and interlock pins vertically up the hair to secure it

·        Roll and twist the other side of the curls around your hand to create the shape of the pleat, keeping it tight, secure with geisha pins vertically into the roll, interlocking with the cross grips

·        Release the top section of barrel curls and backcomb, brush the section into a spiral to sit into/on top of the pleat

·        To perfect the silhouette, you can lift the necessary areas using a pintail comb and secure with hairspray